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iBook 2001 Overclocking Guide
100Mhz bus speed, 600MHz CPU Speed
By Tycho
Published: 8/21/2000

Disclaimer/Caution: This article is for entertainment purposes only. The author nor the site publisher assumes any liability for modifications you make to your iBook, which voids the warranty and overclocking may affect short or long term reliability. Incorrectly done modifications may cause immediate system damage.
Intro | Removing Screws | Resistor Mods | Benchmarks/Game Tests


Removing Screws
The screws that must be removed to take the bottom panel off are labeled with blue dots in the picture below. Also labeled (as red dots) are the 6 screws that must be removed to take the top panel off (2 of the screws are inside the optical bay).

screw locations

Remove the bottom panel by prying around the perimeter of the iBook with a flat blade screwdriver. You will eventually get a feel for where it snaps together and this process will become rather easy, but take your time and be as careful as you can not to damage the plastics.

After you get the bottom off, take off the screws that hold the top panel on. To get to the screws in the optical bay, use your paper clip or pin to open it via the emergency eject hole. The location of these screws is shown below

cd screws

Now that all the necessary screws on the bottom have been removed, set the iBook bottom (exposed motherboard) down on a anti static surface (I used a large motherboard anti static bag). Pop the keyboard up as you would to access the Air Port card. You will see 3 screws and a round metal magnet. Pop the magnet out of it's hole and you will see a screw underneath it. Remove these 4 screws. Next remove the Air Port being careful so as not to damage the antenna wire (I used needle nose pliers to remove the antenna from the card). Now, remove the tray above the RAM slot. Once you have the tray removed, disconnect the keyboard and set it aside in a safe place. Also at this time, disconnect the track pad from the motherboard (the track pad connector is just below the keyboard connector). Now unplug the speaker wires (they plug into the motherboard over by the RGB/headphone port on the left side of the iBook. The top panel should now come off rather easily (it will catch on the power plug in the back right corner of the iBook, so take the left side off first and slide it over to clear the power plug. Once the top panel is free from the iBook, place a piece of cardboard over the LCD. Now lay the top panel onto the cardboard covering the LCD face (there will still be a pair of wires connecting the power button on the top panel to the motherboard).

Now you will need to remove all the screws that attach the ground shield frame. Once you have removed all the screws and tape, set this piece aside in a safe location where it won't get mangled (it is relatively fragile). Now, remove the Air Port PCMCIA slot riser card (it is attached with 2 screws on the back of the motherboard). Also, remove the screws that attach the large die cast plate that sits above the CPU and chipset (the big metal plate next to the RAM slot). Now, it's on to playing with the guts.

Next Step: Resistor reconfiguration and PLL tables


Index of iBook Overclocking Guide

Intro | Removing Screws | Resistor Mods | Benchmarks/Game Tests

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